Vallamkali (Boat Race) – More Than Just a Sport

“Unity is strength” is a universal principle that all of us have heard of and written essays on. This saying can’t be better deciphered than by looking at 100-125 oarsmen, who row in unison to the fast rhythm of Vanchipattu (song of the boatman), slicing their Chundan Vallam (snake boat) across the waves of Vembanad Lake; in short, Vallamkali (Boat Race).

The Nehru Trophy Boat Race, which is held on the Punnamda Lake near Alappuzha on the second Saturday of August every year, is the most competitive and popular of the boat races. On the day of this fiercely fought boat race, the tranquil lake front becomes an ocean of humanity. For the people of each village in Kuttanad, Vallamkali is not just a sport, but a splendid display of their culture and togetherness.

The history of the Nehru Trophy Boat Race is associated with the visit of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the then Prime Minister of India, to Alappuzha. During his trip from Kottayam to Alappuzha across water-logged Kuttanad, a pageantry of Chundan Vallams accompanied him. Thrilled and excited by the performance of the oarsmen, Nehru donated a Silver Trophy, which is a replica of a snake boat placed on a wooden abacus, inscribed – “To the winners of the boat race which is a unique feature of community life in Travancore Cochin.”

Vallamkali is not only the world’s largest team sport but also an adrenaline-pumping, high-octave spectacle, with singers urging on the rowers, and cheering spectators. What makes it special is that the participating boats are no modern marvels, but magnificent traditional crafts called Chundan Vallam .

The 100-120 feet long canoes made of a forest wood locally called “Aanjili thadi” carrying rowers and moving like a snake through the lake is an electrifying sight for any onlooker. The Chundan Vallam has the record of “the biggest water vessel used for sports purpose”. Sleek and immaculately poised, the snake boats are the pride of every village.

From a distance, the galvanising beats of Chenda and Kathakali performances instill an impending combat-like scenario in the mind.

One end of the boat suggests a snake’s flared hood, which is why it’s called a ‘Snake Boat’. It takes more than a year to design and prepare a snake boat. Hard labour, patience and meticulous work are put into crafting these boats.

A triumph which is celebrated for months, winning the Nehru Trophy Vallamkali is a matter of inexpressible esteem for each and every villager of Kuttanad.

Nehru Trophy Boat Race - Kerala

Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Punnamda Lake, near Alappuzha, held on the second Saturday of August every yearThe Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Punnamda Lake, near Alappuzha, held on the second Saturday of August every year, is the most competitive and popular of the boat races. On the day of this fiercely fought boat race, the tranquil lake front is transformed into a sea of humanity with an estimated two lakh people, including tourists from abroad, coming to watch the event. For the people of each village in Kuttanad, a victory at this race for their village boat is something to be celebrated for months to come.

The major attraction of the boat race is the competition of snake boats chundanvallams or snake boats.Chundans (snake boats) are an impressive sight, measuring over 100 feet in length, with a raised prow. They were called snake boats by the former colonial rulers, who based the name on a native boat found in Norway,although Kerala's Chundans bear little resemblance to their European namesakes.



History
In Kuttanadu, the land of lakes and rivers, snake boat racing is something of cult, just as bull fighting is in Spain . Sleek and immaculately poised, the snake boats are the pride of every village. These race boats dominate the thoughts and actions of the people of this region during the months of August and September, when newly 20 minor and major regattas are held.

The water festival in Kuttanad is unique. No other country in the world has such festivities. The large number of participants in a racing boat marks still the uniqueness that no other sport in the world has such a large number in a team. The synchronized way of rowing needs long and devoted training and inherent aptitude. Those who steer the vessel need through knowledge of water current, observation power of high order, and they must be well versed in the different aspects of boat racing. The most notable fact in the races of boats is that a single neglected act of a single participant will lead a boat to lose in the race.

Most of the major water festivals of the region are associated with legends connected with famous temples like champakkulam (Ambalapuzha), Payipad (Haripad) and Aranmula. These festivals best retain the flavour of ancient Kerala culture, especially the Uthrithathi boat race on the Pampa , in Aranmula, where devotion, music and the sheer artistry and grandeur of the boats, known as Palliyodams , make it a unique experience for the spectators.



Background

Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Punnamda Lake, near Alappuzha, held on the second Saturday of August every yearKuttanadu is a vast expanse of water at certain seasons. This part consisting of water-logged area of central Travancore is a region extending to 34,443 acres of agricultural land. It is traversed by different rivers, namely Pamba, Achankovil and Manimala . These rivers wash intoVembanadu Lake . Some Years ago, the present Kuttanadu was part of the Vembanadu Lake . The adventurous and illustrious people of this particular part of the country were engaged in the process of reclamation of water immersed land for the last one thousand and four hundred years. The reclamation of land still continues.

The inhabitants of Kuttanadu are by occupation agriculturists. They engage themselves in the cultivation of paddy and coconut trees on reclaimed land. As natural conditions allow raising only one crop of paddy, the rest of the time the people get immersed in festivities.

As country boats are sheer necessities in the life of the people of Kuttanadu and a large area of garden land is prohibitively luxurious to organize other sports, it is no wonder that they found out boats as their means of enjoyments. The origin of the present boat races is very recent. Formerly people used to assemble in boats like Chundan, Oadi, Veppu, etc., to perform a colorful and musical procession. Later only to create enthusiasm and to inculcate the sporting spirits among the people of the area, the race systems were introduced. The snake boats festival in Aranmula is still a religious procession. The present boat races in Kuttanad have their own history connected to the rulers of the time. Chambakulam Moolam Boat Race is considered to be the most ancient.



The Rajas of Yore

The story of these battling boats goes back 400 years in history when the rajas of the erstwhile principalities of Chempakasseri (Ambalappuzha), Kayamkulam ,Thekkumkoor (Changanacherry) and Vadakkumkoor (Kottayam) in the old Travancore area, which are part of the present Alappuzha district and Kottayam district, frequently crossed swords on the backwaters of Kuttanad. The Chempakasserry troops suffered heavy casualties at the hands of the superior navy their rivals commanded. It soon dawned on the Chempakasserry Raja that the real defect was with his war boats, which were sluggish and cumber.

Nehru Trophy Boat Race on the Punnamda Lake, near Alappuzha, held on the second Saturday of August every yearHe called all the boat architects in the land to his court and told them of his desire to have better, faster boats for the troops. After days of hard labor, a man who was reputed to be the best boat architect in Chempakasserry, Koduppunna Venkitanarayanan Asari, came up with a specimen which satisfied the raja’s requirements. It had speed, maneuverability and capacity to carry 100 able-bodied warriors on board and its eel-like construction was most ideal for launching an ambush since it could be easily kept concealed behind the overhanging bushes on the river banks. The Asari was generously rewarded and in the subsequent battles, the Chempakasseri Raja emerged victorious.

The Deceit

The story goes on to tell how the defeated Kayamkulam Raja sent a spy to Chempakasserri to learn the secret of the new war boat. The spy, a handsome youth, succeeded in seducing Asari’s daughter. The girl’s mother was overjoyed by the prospect of getting him as her daughter’s bridegroom and persuaded her husband to teach him the construction of the boat.

Needless to say, the deceitful youth disappeared the moment the thought he had learnt the secret. Asari was imprisoned by Chempakasserri Raja for treason. But he was released and showered with many honors when the snake boats built by the Kayamkulam Raja proved to be no match for the war boats of Chempakasserry in the next battle. The subtleties of the snake boat’s design are hard to pick and even today it requires years of apprenticeship under a master boat architect before one could independently undertake the construction of this ancient boat.

When a village decides to have a new snake boat, a committee is formed to raise the Rs.6 lakhs it requires now to build the boat. The boat architect is summoned and the search for the “anjili” tree of the required size often takes the villagers to the high ranges of Kerala. As the snake boat takes shape out of the huge trunk, the ‘asari’ relies mainly on his instinctive estimates.

Of late, the boat builders’ prime concern is to make the snake boat as long as possible so as to seat more and more rowers for speed. The Nedumbhagom snake boat recently entered the Guinness Book of Records as the longest rowing boat in the world. But its 135 feet length has since been overtaken by Vellankulangara snake boat, which is 140 feet long.




The Boats [Vallangal]

Kuttanandu is a place of boats. Different kinds of boats are seen always roaming over the waters of this part of the Kerala State . The boats of Kuttanadu are of various types, according to their purpose.

· Kochuvallams are Small boats used to cross rivers and lakes. They also range in their sizes.

· Kettuvallams are largely cargo movers.

· Churulans are pleasure boats and they are considered to be the conveyance of rich people in olden days. The Churulan Boats vary in length from 12 ½ to 20 ¼ Koles and their crew ranges from 10 to 36.

· Chundans are supposed to be Navy boats of Chempakasserry rulers. It has got a length of more than a hundred feet and usually more than a hundred people are on board. Both the ends of the boats are raised from water level. The rear end has a height of about twenty feet from the surface of water. Nearly eighty six persons are rowers, ten to fifteen are to give the rhythm, four are to steer the vessel. It is to be specially noted that the Chundans have the maximum maneuverability among all sorts of race boats.

The Chundan (Snake Boat) variety of Race Boats is usually 38 ½ to 48 ½ koles (One koles being equivalent to 24 inches) long and accommodates 100 to 150 persons.

The history of the Nehru Trophy Boat Race is associated with the visit of late Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the then Prime Minister of India to Alappuzha.Visit Official website of Alappuzha. He chanced a trip from Kottayam to Alappuzha Visit Official website of Alappuzha.by boat, through water logged Kuttanad. A pageantry of boats accompanied him on the trip.The first race was an impromptu once conducted in 1952 in honour of Panditji who visited Alappuzha.In that race of snake boats, Nadubhagam Chundan stood first. Panditji, who was thrilled and excited in the performance of the oarsmen, jumped into the Nadubhagam Chundan, forgetting all security arrangements.The boat proceeded to the boat jetty carrying the Prime Minister.On his return to Delhi in December 1952, Nehru donated a Silver Trophy, which is a replica of a snake boat placed on a wooden abacus.The trophy bears the following inscription above his signature.

“To the winners of the boat race which is a unique feature of community life in Travancore Cochin."

This trophy later came to be known as Nehru Trophy, and in fond memory of great Panditiji, the people of Alappuzha celebrate the Nehru Trophy Boat Race every year.

Reminiscences

A beautiful golden ‘Mandapom’ under the Manro lamp at Aryad. It is exquistely decorated. Artistically laid up seating arrangements and a temporary platform and pavilion are set up.

The Vembanad Lake in front of the Mandapom. Eight tracks, each of 30 meters width marked in the lake. Bamboo poles laid in the one mile long distance for this. Special boats, motor launches and big county crafts in line. The sons of Kuttanad are in ecstasy.

Minutes give way to hours. Patient waiting by everyone. 01:40 Pm

“Here comes...., here comes..”
Everyone glanced and every finger pointed to a distance.” Dorothy”, the special boat approaches majestically causing flutters in the lake. The atmosphere gets filled with loud cheers. The boat moves on and on aiming the 'Mandapom'. The esteemed Chief Guest, clad in Churidar Pyjama-Kurtha, Gandhi cap and wearing pathan Shoes down near the Mandapom.

“Panditji Ki Jai”! Deafening cheers from thousands. The architect of modern India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, India's first Prime Minister raised his hands to receive salutations. The guns boomed 63 times to mark Nehru's age. The office-bearers garlanded the Prime Minister, who got seated in the Mandapom with his characteristic, charismatic smile. Panditji liked specially the garland made of Paddy grains. Indira Priyadarsini who was with her father was given a casket made of paddy grains. Her children were presented with bouquets in the shape of paddy bunches.

It is time for the race. A great boom is heard. Eight snake boats (Chundan Valloms) darted forward in lighting speed, marking the beginning of the race. Pandit Nehru watches the spectacular sight through the binoculars. Like a child who cannot control its ecstasy, he jumped up and down. He was greatly thrilled. As the race boats neared the pavilion, the esteemed guest got on his chair. “There .. Comes ..” , said he, holding his grand-children Rajeev and Sanjay. As the waves of joy dashed in the little minds, Nehru asked his daughter “Indu, can u see well”? She nodded.

The boats were nearing the finishing point. The sight of equal forces vying for supremacy was a sight to be watched. The mind boggling affairs made Nehru forget himself. He began dancing to the rhythm of the paddlers. The banks of the lake were immersed in loud clapping. The rhyme and rhythm of Vanchipattu (Boat songs) filled the entire atmosphere.

'Nadubhagom Chundan’ in unbelievable speed crossed the finishing point and hoisted the winner, flag on the boat. The then District Collector Kerala Varma announced the results of the race over the microphone. The captain of “Nadubhagom”, Mathu Chacko received the special prize from Panditji – the rolling trophy made in pure silver, in the shape of a snake boat. The trophy costing Rs.1000/- , then raised the prestige of 'Nadubhagom Chundan'. The Captain of all the boats received some prize or other from Jawaharlal Nehru.

After the race, all the Snake boats were going towards the Alappuzha boat jetty. While nearing the VIP pavilion, the oarsmen displayed their talents besides there immense joy. The sight of the long row of snake boats with the routers inside it enchanted Nehru. He tried to jump into the Nadubhagom Chundan as the boat reached very near to the pavilion. The then home Minister of Thiru-Kochi, T.M.Varghese tried to dissuade him saying, “It will be convenient to go in a mechanized special boat”. “No, Mr.Varghese let me be in the snake boat for five minutes. You don't have to be afraid”, said Panditji. Not wasting time, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru jumped into the Nadubhagom Snake boat. His grand children who wanted to follow suit, were dissuaded. “You may come with your mother in the special boat, he said. In spite of Nehru's protestations, the security officer jumped into the Snake boat.

A pleasure trip was made by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru standing inside the Nadubhagom Chundan, in accompaniment of other snake boats. The waves of Punnamada rolled on her beams. Emotional deluge filled the atmosphere as India's Prime Minister, oblivious of everything else, enjoyed the trip. This marked the beginning of the greatest water sport in the world. The colourful Boat Race was first for the “Prime Minister’s Trophy”. Later, it came to be known as ”Nehru Trophy Boat Race”. The Nehru Trophy Boat Race can rightly be called “Kuttanad's Olympics on water”, the national festival of the people of Kuttanad. This is held every year on the second Saturday of August, at the palm-fringed, picturesque Punnamada Lake, Alappuzha, Kerala, 'God's own Country'.



Looking Back

The 8 Snake boats participated in the procession were, Nadubhagom, Chambakkulam (Amichakari), ParthaSarathy, Kavalam, Valiya Diwanji, Neppolean, Nethaji, GearGoss (I.C.Vallam).

The boat race was conducted at the west corner of Vembanadu lake from west of Mantro Light at North towards south. Starter was Sh.E.J. Luckose, Physical Director, CMS High School . Chief Judge was Sh.Kurien John, Thazhathangady.

1954, Boat race was conducted as Prime Minister’s Trophy at Meenappally Vattakkayal, Kainakary.

Since 1955, the Boat Race is conducted at Punnamada Kayal.

In 1952, The Boat race was conducted by the District Collector, Kollam, since Alappuzha district was not there then.

The island pavilion was built in 1970.

The pageantry and excitement

The race courser having a length of about 1370 meters is divided into various tracks for the conduct of the competition. When they are advancing through various tracks, it appears like the fast moving snakes. The oarsmen splash the oars in unison with the rhythmic chants and beats of drums. The movements of competing boats are so thrilling that the spectators get a tune with the excited mood of the surrounding uproars.

The festival begins with a procession of the snake boats. The snake boats and the smaller varieties of Kerala race boats like the ‘Churulan’, ‘Veppu’ and oadi’ move in a formation down the 1.4 KM stretch of the lake as the sturdy villagers, their biceps rippling in the sun, row with an elaborate flourish of the oars to the singing of couplets from “Kuchelavritham Vanchipattu” the classic Malayalam poem written by Ramapurathu Warrier to regale King Marthanda Varma of Travancore in early 19th century during a boat journey from Vaikom to Thiruvananthapuram. The numerous beaded umbrellas held aloft in each boat, the gilded sterns of the ebony black snake boats and the changing patterns that the rowers weave with their oars transform the lake into a kaleidoscope. Floats giving glimpses of Kerala’s rich cultural heritage follow the race boats, with artists performing “kathakali” “theyyam” “panchavadyam” and “padayani”.

And then a quiet falls on the lake front, broken only by the sound of ripples lapping the embankment and the rustle of palm leaves in the wind. The snake boats line up at the starting point for the great race. As the starter’s flag goes up, the scence freezes into a tableau the rowers tense with their paddles poised, the pace keepers alert and the steersmen straining against their long oars.

The flag falls in a blur and suddenly the thumping begins. The crowd erupts into a roar, birds flutter up from their perch on the trees and the snake boats hiss their way down the lake in a haze of spray, fighting a pitched battle in the dappled waters. “Ayyo-poyye… ayyo-poyye” – the cadence grows to a crescendo as the oars dip and flash 100 to 120 times a minute and the steersmen hurl their gigantic oars in a high arc.

Communal amity

Preparations for the big event begin several weeks in advance. The snake boat is smeared with sardine oil for smooth passage through water, the best oarsmen are selected and, under the supervision of the senior most oarsmen, the practice sessions begin. Around 150 oarsmen, who would represent the village, take the vow to observe strict abstinence and celibacy till the oars to each of them. Each ward in the village and at time rich individuals takes their turn in feeding the athletes on the days of the practice at mass feasts on the river banks.

Even in the days of untouchables, this was a feature of the regattas with caste Hindus, Scheduled Castes, Christians and Muslims sitting in the same row for the feast symbolising the communal amity in Kuttanad. In fact, the Church has a traditional role in the celebrations at Champakkulam though the water festival there is associated with a temple legend.

Technical Specifications

Track length – 1400 M.

Chundan -
Amaram - 5 Persons
Nilakkar - 5 Persons

Total no. of team members- 111

Tracks –
4 tracks of 10 M. wide from East.

Content from: www.nehrutrophy.nic.in

Alappuzha (Alleppey)

Affectionately called the Venice of the East, Alapuzha is a land of immense natural beauty. Sandwitched between the blue waters of the Arabian Sea on one side and the foothills of the Western Ghats on the other side, Alapuzha had always been a favoured destination of tourists since time immemorial. Its sun filled beaches, its lagoons, and canals criss-crossing the country side, its immense marine wealth, its snake boat races, its coir factories, and the relics of a glorious past have given Alappuzha a pride of place in the international tourist map.

Alappuzha has much to offer to a discerning tourist. It is to all intends and purposes an ideally tourist destination in God’s own country.

Places of Tourist importance

Kuttanad

Kuttanad is the center of all backwater delights. One can spend endless hours enjoying the beauty of it all. Cruising along the backwaters in the cool confines of an impeccably furnished Houseboat would be an experience of a lifetime. Kuttanad literally is backwater country and is one of the few places in the world where farming is done below the sea level. The palm fringed paddy fields, a first hand knowledge of the agrarian life of a gentry and the breathtaking natural beauty of the country side are all sure to leave nostalgic memories in the minds of each and every visitor.

Alapuzha beach

Alapuzha beach is considered one of thee finest beaches in the country. The unending flow of tourist traffic to this beach can be explained by the presence of a clean and serene beach. The beach also houses one of the finest amusement parks where people of all ages can spend some pleasant moments. Children would love riding the toy trains, enjoy cycle rides and swimming and boating in the pool. A 140 year old pier in the beach is a relic of the flourishing commercial activities that Alapuzha was home to in bygone days.

Pathiramanal

Literally meaning sands of midnight, this is an island in the Vembanadu lake that is a must for every tourist setting his foot in Alapuzha. The creation of this island has a mythological past and is considered a divine gift. The tourism department, Government of Kerala has constructed a walkway for the convenience of the tourists within the island. The island is home to rare species of migratory birds. Visiting this cool and serene evergreen island should be a must in every tourist itinerary. Pathiramanal is accessible by boat only and lies between Thanneerrmukkam in Alappuzha district and Kumarakom in Kottayam district. Lying on the shores of the vembanad lake East of Alappuzha, Kumarakom, to be sure is a tourist’s delight and is home to one of the finest bird sanctuaries in the country. It is a mere half an hour boat ride from Alappuzha through the Vembanad Lake.

Ambalapuzha Sree Krishna temple

Situated at a distance of 15 kms from Alapuzha, this temple is a standing testimony to the architectural brilliance of a bygone era. Majestic paintings adorn its inner walls. The Dasavatharam (10 incarnations of Lord Vishnu), painted on its walls is a highly acclaimed masterpiece. Kunjan Nambiar, the greatest Malayalam satirist staged his first ottam thullal (classical Kerala art form) performance in the precincts of this temple. The temple has also gained a unique fame for the palapayasam (delicious milk porridge) that is given as offering.

Krishnapuram Palace

This palace was built by king Marthanda Varma Raja and is situated at Karthikapally, a distance of 47 kms from Alapuzha. The place houses some of the finest mural paintings seen anywhere in Kerala. Built in the 18th century, the palace, besides, show cases an innumerable number of antique sculptures and bronze relics.

Karumadikkuttan

This is an 11 th century bronze statue of Lord Buddha situated at Kuttanad, 3 kms East of Ambalapuzha. Innumerable number of mythological stories revolves around this statue. Such a statue as this has never been reported to be found anywhere else. It has an attraction that defies logic. This statue is a favorite with a large number of tourists both Indian and foreign.

Mannarasala Nagaraja Temple

This is an internationally acclaimed pilgrim spot and lies at a distance of 32 kms from Alapuzha. It is dedicated to the serpent God Nyagaraja. A Brahmin priestess always remains the head of the temple. The temple is credited with miraculous cures and lies in the midst of dense evergreen vegetation. Barren women make sacrificial offerings to the serpent God in the fervent belief that they will be blessed with an offspring. The turmeric paste given as prasadam here is believed by some to be effective in curing every form of disease including leprosy.Edathua church

Lying on the Thiruvalla –Alapuzha route, this 19 the century church is a favourite with devotees of all religions. The patron saint, St. George is believed o cure every type of disease that the faithful. may be afflicted with. This church, however, is better known for drawing in those with serious mental problems.

Champakkulam church

It is one of the oldest churches in India and is believed to be one of the 7 established by St. Thomas, the Apostle. The annual feast is held on the 3rd Sunday of every year.

Houseboats

Houseboats are huge, slow moving exotic barges designed for leisure trips. In olden days these were used to ferry rice and other commercial merchandise to Cochin port. With the decline in goods transport through these slow moving barges and an increase in tourism activities, these barges have been turned in to modern day miniature floating hotels termed houseboats.

These eco friendly houseboats in most cases are impeccably furnished and have all the modern days comforts of a premium hotel. These houseboats feature well-furnished bedrooms, modern hygienic toilets, living room, balcony for angling and a well-endowed kitchen. Houseboats offer scope for angling from the balcony. The guests will be presented with a choice of meals. But in most cases the obvious choice will center on Kerala delicacies with the freshly caught delicious Karimeen (pearl spot) curry.

Spending some memorable moments in the confines of these houseboats cruising along the serene backwaters would be an experience of a lifetime.

Nehru Trophy boat race

Alapuzha is the land of water fiestas. The Nehru trophy boat race held on the second Saturday of August every year at the Vembanadu Lake is the most colourful of the lot. The boat race is held in commemoration of the visit of the late Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru to kuttanad. This magnificent spectacle is viewed by an innumerable number of tourists both Indian and foreign. Over 130 oars men row the 100 feet long snake boat in unison to the singing of the Vanchipattu (song of the boat men) and rush headlong to the finishing point. The victor is given a rousing welcome and is accompanied by lavish gifts.

The Champakkulam boat race is another boat race that also draws in large crowds.

Accessibility

Alapuzha is accessible from every part of the country. It lies on the NH 47. It is besides, a major railhead and innumerable trains pass through Alapuzha.It is also the starting point of a large number of trains going to North India. It is also accessible by boat and daily boat services are available from Quilon (Kollam), Kottayam and Ernakulam.